g7fekantenna, Anteny KF
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G7FEK Limited Space Antenna
G7FEK Multi-band “Nested Marconi” Antenna - 2008 Version (rev 5)
A 46 ft multi band antenna for small gardens that works well on 80 meters
Main bands (@~50 ohm) are 80m / 40m / 30m / 17m / 15m / 12m
Other bands (see text): 20m / 10m
38 ft (11.7m)
8 ft (2.5m)
24 ft (7.4m)
50 Ohm Coaxial
This antenna was first conceived as a simple dual band antenna in 1988, in an attempt to achieve sensible dual band operation in
a small garden of 14m (46 ft) length. Evolving from a simple end-fed Marconi for 80m, the idea was to use the opposing harmonic
relationships of two ¼ wave elements so that they could be fed on odd harmonics without mutual coupling. This principle has been
used with nested dipole antennas and other specialist multi-band antennas such as the Cobweb, but because of interaction and
coupling issues, it’s rarely implemented on end fed wire antennas. With this version of the antenna, interaction between elements
and top resonance have been turned to our advantage allowing for excellent multi-band working, while maintaining a useful
radiation pattern and efficiency on almost all Amateur Radio bands.
The suggested dimensions provide for low radiation angle (30 to 40 degrees) on all bands except 30m where the antenna acts as a
full size horizontal dipole. Low VSWR is achievable on most bands and, with careful construction, up to four bands can be used
without ATU. Radiation resistance is in the range 25 to 200 ohms on all bands, ensuring high radiation efficiency, even with moder-
ate earthing arrangements. Unlike the Windom or G5RV, the fundamental bands can be resonated independently.
G7FEK’s antenna was built from G5RV leftovers it looks a little like a small, off centre, G5RV. If anyone has tried a G5RV in 46 ft of
garden you will know that performance is not that great, and the “½ size” G5RV is completely useless on 80 meters.
During sunspot minimum, putting out a good signal on 80m can mean the difference between operating HF radio or not, as most
other bands are not in good shape. This antenna allows anyone to achieve an effective full size 80m antenna in a small garden
with excellent low angle DX performance, closely matching a full size dipole installed at the same height.
So what is it ?
G7FEK’s original “Nested Marconi Antenna” was first designed in 1988 and comprised two quarter-waves in parallel, fed against
ground in inverted L. The original antenna was roughly 50 feet long x 22 feet high. During 2007 the antenna was optimised and
tested at sunspot minimum to improve performance and multi-band operation. The difference in feed impedance between elements
determines which element is coupled to the feeder and which element floats, thus automatic band switching occurs without the
need for traps. For the higher bands this antenna utilises the odd harmonic resonance of these elements which are also at low
impedance. In each case some radiation is coupled from the driven element into the main antenna, producing a useful radiation
pattern and omni directional low angle performance. On 30m, the top horizontal section works as an end fed dipole with ¼ wave
transformer feed, as in the Zeppelin antenna, giving a dipole radiation pattern while assuring a low impedance feed. The
dimensions have been carefully optimised for best multi band performance and to maintain a low angle radiation pattern on all
bands for best DX working, while taking up only a small physical space.
This design is very easy and cheap to build and unlike many limited space antennas, it works very well on 80 meters, a band that
many Radio Amateurs with restricted space have previously been denied.
Mike, G7FEK is grateful for the feedback received from several Radio Amateurs including: Lee Crocker W9OY for his original
attempts at modelling the antenna with EZNEC, Martin G8ODE for his thorough detailed testing and modelling with MMANA-GAL
and to Scott, VE3SCP, for providing such detailed analysis of his own real installation along with details of the many DXCC
contacts he is making with just 100W on 80m with the antenna. User contributions and feedback are helping me gain a better
understanding of what is happening with this antenna in different “real world” scenarios and are always welcome.
© 1988 - 2009 Mike Dennis, G7FEK. - Website:
www.g7fek.co.uk
- updated: 27 March 2010
Construction Guide
In this article I have laid out the current recommended design dimensions below. Whatever variation you make from
this, one thing that is certain is that this antenna performs extremely well on 80 meters in a small space, and it is very
difficult to get it wrong for that band. On tests it is comparable to a full size dipole at similar height for DX working.
Even if you don’t have an antenna analyser or a noise bridge, or you have to compromise a little with installation, at
these dimensions this antenna will usually trim up nicely with your ATU on all of the main amateur bands.
Resizing the Antenna
The antenna can be resized within a certain range of dimensions. For each amount of extra height, the same amount
must be removed from each end. So if you can get more height you can fit the antenna into an even smaller garden.
There is some scope for experimentation with length vs height. So long as the overall length of each quarter-wave ele-
ment remains intact, (vertical + horizontal extension) the base operating frequencies should not be seriously affected.
Remember that unlike a horizontal antenna, longer does NOT mean better. A longer / lower antenna reduces efficien-
cy and bandwidth on 80m by shortening the vertical radiator and increasing loading while lowering radiation resist-
ance. The antenna has been tested well and it is best to use the recommended dimensions for all round multi-band
performance.
The Basic G7FEK Antenna
38 ft (11.7m)
8 ft (2.5m)
Tune this end for resonance on 3.7 MHz
Tune this end for resonance just below 7.1 MHz
Support the antenna only at the ends if possible.
Avoid using a metal mast directly alongside the vertical.
If you need support at the feeder, use a fibreglass mast.
(The Shack End)
24 ft (7.4m)
(Bottom of Garden)
Twin feeder or ladder line.
Impedance is not important. Spacing
should not be too small. (>20mm)
Short both ends of vertical elements together
and connect to coax inner
50 Ohm Coaxial
Counterpoise or earth connected to coax outer - see text
EARTHING OPTIONS
The minimum requirement for the counterpoise (resonant elevated radial) is a single 65 ft insulated wire (20m) laying
in the general direction of the 80m horizontal extension. This can run around a corner to fit in your garden, but keep it
just above real ground, and raised at the far end. I also recommend at least one 33ft (10m) counterpoise is also used
to ensure proper tuning of the 7Mhz element.
For simplicity and for portable operation, while not the most efficient earth, laying two “well insulated” wires (2.5mm
2
insulated copper wire) of approximately ~60ft (19m) and ~30ft (9m) directly along the ground has proved very
effective and easy to match to 50 ohm. You must raise the last three meters above the ground up to approximately
50cm height. You should be able to achieve very low VSWR on 80m and 40m using this method and easy tuning.
If preferred, a more traditional ground of several buried radials can be used. Make these about 30ft (10m) long (any
longer is not a big advantage) but you will need at least 4 (and preferably a lot more) for a usable earth.
Note that with a good earth and the antenna working close to maximum efficiency, the VSWR will be higher on 80m
and the impedance lower (~25 ohms at antenna). Thus an ATU will be needed. For the best DX, a good earth
arrangement is preferred over a 1:1 VSWR, because high radiation efficiency is the ultimate goal for antenna design,
not lowest VSWR.
© 1988 - 2009 Mike Dennis, G7FEK. - Website:
www.g7fek.co.uk
- updated: 27 March 2010
Basic Set up Procedure
Step 1 - Impedance matching
To start, experiment with the counterpoise length & position for VSWR dip somewhere around 3.7 MHz and 7.1 MHz. The exact
resonant frequency is not important yet and will be fine tuned afterwards. If the dip occurs far too high in frequency or cannot be
located, your earthing arrangements are probably not good enough and need further work.
Step 2 - Fine tune the antenna elements to resonance
Once you have a low VSWR (< 2:1) at a nearby frequency, fine tune the two elements to resonance on 3.700 and 7.100 MHz
respectively. If you find the SWR dip occurs too low in frequency (say 3.58 MHz), then just shorten the appropriate element end by
folding and twisting the wire back on itself (No need to cut it). When you have tuned resonance to 3.7 and 7.1 MHz, the antenna is
ready for use on all other bands. Initially, you might want to make the wires a little longer than shown to allow for a wider range of
adjustment.
Expected Performance
Most of my recent tests through 2007/2008 were compared with a 100ft doublet antenna at the same height of 24ft. Most testing
was carried out on 80m as this band was the real challenge for a small garden. Details of some tests can be found at
www.g7fek.co.uk
My own experiments over the years have shown that the G7FEK (and other similar vertical antennas) can equal and are
sometimes better than a full size dipole for DX for medium to long skip contacts. One thing you will notice is that for very short skip
(100 - 400 miles) the G7FEK Antenna may be down slightly on a full size dipole of equivalent height, by around 6 to 10 dB (1-2 S
points) on 80m due to the low angle of radiation. NVIS performance is still much better than "straight up" vertical antennas, as the
"inverted L" style of the G7FEK full size elements gives rise to some useful high angle radiation for short skip contacts.
DX Contacts on 80m
Several users have reported excellent DX results on 80m, even during our present sunspot minimum, with just 100W. In my own
tests I have also been able to work good DX on this antenna. When I’ve worked DX outside Europe on 80m it has always been on
this antenna as my Doublet doesn’t perform as well. This is no surprise as it is well known that a low angle of radiation is needed
for DX and is delivered by this antenna.
Short Skip and NVIS on 80m
While the 80m band is "open" most "short skip" 100W contacts made with a good dipole antenna at each end, achieve signals of
around S9 +15dB. With the G7FEK antenna you can expect the same "short skip" signals to be received above S9 under the same
conditions. So, although this antenna is low angle on 80m, it still has sufficient high angle of radiation to be useful for short skip.
Just for comparison, the signal from a 51ft "half size G5RV" (if you can feed it on 80m) would most likely be well below S7 or, more
likely, lost in the noise..
Higher Bands
All the other bands seem to perform about the same as my doublet antenna with very little difference noted, except on 14MHz
where the doublet was superior. This was to be expected since the standard G7FEK antenna was not resonant on 14MHz without
an additional element (see text). On 14MHz without the element, the antenna was still tunable with acceptable performance, but
adding this extra element gives a vast improvement for DX working.
Signal to Noise
I have a low noise floor on 80m with very little interference from man made devices. I find that the G7FEK antenna has a lower
atmospheric noise than my doublet. This may be generally true of vertical ¼ wave antennas as most of their signal comes in from
the horizon and they may be less sensitive to atmospheric noise from space. I regularly hear weak stations that others cannot hear
on 80m at my location.
If you live in a town or City or have a large amount of “man made” noise (above atmospheric noise floor). You will find there is little
difference in noise between this antenna or any other antenna.
QRM due to skip
When working very short skip (local contacts) interference from distant stations may be greater on this antenna than a dipole
because of its low angle performance. However signals on 80m are normally strong enough to overcome any potential problems.
© 1988 - 2009 Mike Dennis, G7FEK. - Website:
www.g7fek.co.uk
- updated: 27 March 2010
G7FEK Antenna Design Notes and Suggestions
Resizing the antenna: Vertical Height versus Horizontal Length
For practical installations you can vary the antenna height versus length. (This may
affect multi band operation and an ATU may be necessary).
Don’t make the vertical section (the twin feeder) any longer than the available height.
For example, do not be tempted to run 24ft (7.4m) of vertical feeder up a 16ft (5m)
fibreglass pole, leaving the remainder of the vertical section laying on the ground.
Instead, if you cannot achieve the recommended 24ft height, make the antenna
vertical shorter and the overall length longer by the same amount at each end. This is
because on lower bands most of the radiation comes from the vertical section and
none of it should be laying on the ground..
Note: Reducing the height below 24ft also reduces radiation efficiency and therefore
performance.
Counterpoise / Radials
“Taking up the slack” - This is the feedpoint of
Scott’s (VE3SCP) version of the G7FEK antenna.
For optimum DX performance a good earth or radial system is required. However, in
tests, we were not able to see a huge difference between multiple buried radials and a
simple double counterpoise arrangement. Unless you are seeking out the weakest
DX, you can start off with two counterpoise (radial) wires around the perimeter of your
garden running in opposite directions, and you can add to your earthing system at a
later date if needed. Start off with 33ft and 65ft for the radials. Radials do not have to
go in a straight line.
Buried radials, earth rods or any other earthing system can be tried. Earth rods
generally do not perform well for RF unless your soil is particularly conductive. More
buried radials are needed than resonant elevated radials, but they can be shorter
(typically <10m long) and work over a wider bandwidth. Do not use insulated wire for
buried radials.
Construction Tips
The easiest way to make a neat antenna, is to use a
standard
ribbon dipole centre
at the top of the feeder
and a
coaxial dipole centre
at the feed point. (Make
sure the centre of the coax is connected to the vertical
section and not to earth!!). Test before assembly!
An example of the coax feed point used by G7FEK is
shown in the picture on the right -
>>
A good tidy G7FEK installation . This neat and tidy
job is by Scott, VE3SCP. This is a 24ft vertical sec-
tion with 8 and 38ft horizontal extensions.
Support Pole
A Typical G7FEK antenna feed
point before weatherproofing with
self amalgamating tape
The antenna can be supported at the ends, leaving the
vertical hanging in the clear. The top section will not be
flat because the 7MHz end will hang more vertical due
to the weight of the feeder, but this is not a
disadvantage - remember this is mostly a vertical
antenna. If you use heavy duty wire (2.5mm), you can
increase the horizontal tension to keep the vertical
height and make a tidy installation.
If, like me, you prefer to support the antenna with a
pole at the feeder, use a fibreglass or wooden pole if
possible. If it is more convenient, you can use a metal
pole at the bottom and make the top fibreglass, PVC or
wood to insulate it and avoid a resonant length of the
metal pole. On my antenna (left) I use a 20ft (6m)
fibreglass pole which is attached to a 5ft (1.5m) steel
pole with heavy duty cable ties, making it easy for me
to take it down and change antennas.
At the top of the feeder, after
weather-proofing - not pretty but
waterproof!!
DO NOT INSTALL AS INVERTED-V
Mike, G7FEK’s own installation
Yes, it’s another FEK lash up!!
Although some downward slope is tolerable, this
antenna is not a dipole antenna and will not work
properly in a fully inverted-V configuration.
“Plastic on Metal” - Using a PVC
extension to a metal mast. Note
that the vertical section is kept
clear of the mast.
© 1988 - 2009 Mike Dennis, G7FEK. - Website:
www.g7fek.co.uk
- updated: 27 March 2010
MORE USEFUL NOTES
Add a Choke
When using this antenna without a perfect ground, a feed-line choke is advisable to
ensure that the RF return path is only via the counterpoise and not via the radio!. A
simple common mode RF choke is made from winding 20ft of RG58 coax on a 4 to
8 inch (1`00 to 200mm) diameter PVC drainpipe.
This is normally added at the coax feed-point, but on this antenna it is can also be
used nearer the radio end, at about 55ft down the coax from the antenna. While a
little unusual, placing it here allows part of the coax itself to contribute to the
grounding effect by working like an additional counterpoise, while still keeping the
RF return current away from the transmitter.
RF Feed line Choke used by G7FEK.
Vertical twin impedance is not critical
The antenna vertical twin feeder is used as part of the antenna elements and NOT as a dipole feeder. Therefore the
actual impedance of the line is not critical. 450 ohm line works well. Spacing should be greater than 20mm.
Make element wires longer to start with
The dimensions given are typical when set up to work on most amateur bands but may vary in different installations.
Start with longer lengths to allow for proper tuning of the antenna to resonance.
Keep the vertical in the clear
The vertical section does most of the radiating on the lower bands. Keep it in the clear. ie. don’t nail it to a tree or place
it right next to buildings.
Using a Metal Pole
While fibreglass is preferred, a metal support pole can also be used. Avoid resonant lengths if possible and extend the
pole to full height with a short length of wood or PVC pipe to make up 24ft. Keep the vertical element clear of the pole
by sloping it away by a small distance (1 - 2ft).
Actually Build it
With any antenna the best way to test it is to build it, even if its just a lash up for proof of concept. If you have been
unable to use 80m because of your garden size, and want a useful multi-band antenna for all HF bands, this is a good
solution. Computer modelling may be fun but is not 100% accurate and definitely no substitute for the real thing.
Provide Feedback
So that I can keep other users informed, please let me know how you get on and if you experience any difficulties.
This allows me to provide hints and tips to other users.
© 1988 - 2009 Mike Dennis, G7FEK. - Website:
www.g7fek.co.uk
- updated: 27 March 2010
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